Showing posts with label Chefs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chefs. Show all posts

Saturday, November 5, 2011

James Beard Dinner with Chef Dirk Flanigan of Chicago's Henri and The Gage

Click here to be taken to my photo gallery on StarChefs.com

From February 2011 at The James Beard House



      Lobster Wellington with Duck Gastrique


     
     Lobster Wellington with Duck Gastrique



    Goat Liver Pate with Pickled Onions



    Goat Liver Pate with Pickled Onions




      Foie Gras and Barbecued Eel Terrine and Sweet and Sour Lettuce




     Foie Gras and Barbecued Eel Terrine and Sweet and Sour Lettuce



      Chicken-fried Lobster, Blue Cheese Sorbet, and Hot Sauce Vinaigrette



    The back-of-house crew from Henri and The Gage work to prepare dinner for 80 at the James Beard House



    The back-of-house crew from Henri and The Gage work to prepare dinner for 80 at the James Beard House



                           Chef Dirk Flanigan of The Gage and Henri – Chicago, IL sauces plates for pick-up



            Chef Dirk Flanagin and crew plate Chicken-fried Lobster, Blue Cheese Sorbet, and Hot Sauce Vinaigrette



         Chicken-fried Lobster, Blue Cheese Sorbet, and Hot Sauce Vinaigrette



Dover Sole, Oysters, Caviar, and Swan Creek Maple Syrup

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

StarChefs Oysters Feature on Eatocracy

If you're already besotted by bivalves, and eagerly jump on Happy Hour on-the-half-shell bargains, then hopefully this guide will help amp the tasting experience on your next trip to Maison Premiere in Williamsburg, Greenpoint's Lobster Joint, or the John Dory, or GCOB if you're Manhattan-bound.

At any rate, you'll be fully prepared to participate in a debate over Duxbury vs. Dosewallips (or at the very least, weigh in on the real difference between East vs. West coast oysters) at the bar.

Safe shucking!





CNN Homepage



Box lunch
February 2nd, 2011
12:00 PM ET
Sink your teeth into today's top stories from around the globe.
  • The bigger the bivalve, the better? - StarChefs


  • Mark Bittman shares his ideas on improving the future of food in this country. -New York Times

  • To fork or not to fork? The utensil spectrum answers the question. - Slate

  • Is it kosher for chefs to poke fun at their customers? - Washington Post

  • The mystery meat at Azabu Elementary School in Tokyo is a whale of a tale. - Wall Street Journal
Posted by: 
Filed under: Box Lunch • News

Monday, October 3, 2011

ICC2011: Coverage of Spanish Chef Ángel León and Chilean Chef Rodolfo Guzman

Chef of the Sea: Cultivating the Ocean's Purest Flavors

Angel Leon shares the Ocean's Purest Flavors on the Main Stage
Ángel León shares the Ocean's Purest Flavors on the Main Stage

Spanish Chef Ángel León walked onto the Main Stage, greeted the audience with a warm smile fresh from Spain’s southern Atlantic coast, and introduced close to 10 cutting edge techniques and concepts out of his kitchen at Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María outside of Cádiz. He bases his cuisine on the ocean’s food chain, from the smallest sea creature (picture plankton) up.  Squeamish audience members wrinkled their noses at the green plankton paste passed around for them to taste, but on the tongue it was salty, briny, buttery, and delicious. Beyond being the first chef on Earth to sow, harvest, and serve plankton, León seeks out other sustainable means of respecting the sea, like transforming the kind of catch deemed unfit to sell by fishermen into menu items at his restaurant. He also transports harbor-bound, bottom-feeding (and hence, petroleum-filtering) grey mullet to a natural reserve “paradise” fish sanctuary. After a time there, the fish bellies go through total detox. León’s team then harvests their unctuous fatty bellies and produces charcuterie that parallels pork-based boudin blanc or chorizo in texture and whose flavor carries a touch of brine—which made a splash with a crowd full of hungry ICC attendees. To close, we got a deeper glimpse into the heart of Aponiente: “He sido cocinero desde pequeño. Pero fue primero el mar que me llamó.” (I’ve been a cook since I was little. But it was the sea that first called to me.”)

Click here to read on StarChefs.com

ICC2011: Coverage of Chilean Chef Rodolfo Guzman of Boragó

Chile's Native Son

Rodolfo Guzman shares the  time and place philosophy of Borago on the Main Stage
Rodolfo Guzmán shares the time and place philosophy of Boragó on the Main Stage

A young Chilean chef took the stage, earnest, focused and transparently passionate. He began by introducing in a few words the work at his restaurant Boragó in Santiago. Culinary foraging trips across the scaly, notched spine of Chile’s 2,650 miles have resulted in the discovery of long-forgotten foodways and 32 different kinds of mushrooms and other ingredients previously unknown outside of indigenous cooking. The Sixth Sense struck the audience with a shiver when Chef Rodolfo Guzmán began to demonstrate his food. A simple preparation of native kra kra fish from Easter Island visually represented time and place, as terroir from sea-to-plate blended with the ancient technique of cooking over volcanic rocks. Rainfall in cold, near-Arctic Patagonia transformed into a bite-sized snack and visible wisp of mentholated air. Guzmán´s final dish started as a story about the discovery of a tree in the middle of nowhere. It’s special to the Mapuche people because its seed pods produce a haunting spirit call in the wind. In the video that followed (painstakingly produced by Guzmán), the chef demonstrated a chocolate “seed pod” with a rattle that echoed through the hearts of all those in attendance, a global community of chefs in love with food and cooking.

Click here to read on StarChefs.com

ICC2011: Coverage of Austin Chef Philip Speer of Uchi

Tasting Nostalgia: The Sixth Sense Ingredient

Chef Philip Speer of Uchi, Chef Johnny Iuzzini of BravoTV's Top Chef Just Desserts also featured


When you take one of the most innovative chefs (Philip Speer) out of Texas, whose restaurant,Uchi, plays around with notions of nostalgia—and invite him to contribute his ideas on the Sixth Sense—you get a workshop packed with chefs from around the country, including New York’s own hometown hero Johnny Iuzzini and New York Rising Star Pastry Chef Shawn Gawle ofCorton. Everyone had a bite of the dessert inspired by Chef Speer’s grandpa: Tobacco Cream, Scotch Gel, Maple Budino, Candied Pecans, and Huckleberry Coulis, which provoked ICC 2011 presenter Alex Talbot from Ideas in Food to pipe up with a recipe request. ICC attendee Chef Scott Miller of Max’s Oyster Bar in Hartford, Connecticut called the workshop “phenomenal.” “The techniques were great. You can’t get this close to other chefs by watching TV.”

Click here to read on StarChefs.com

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Tempering Chocolate Aggression at Morimoto



Click here to read this feature on StarChefs.com


Carving Chocolate

by Jessica Dukes
 Antoinette Bruno  Jessica Dukes


August 2011
Nobody knows presentation like a Japanese chef. And Pastry Chef Manabu Inoue knows how to elicit a chorus of "oohs" and "aahs" from any table at Morimoto in Chelsea. His desserts regularly inspire gratitude on the part of the diner at their very delivery. They also function to transition diners authentically from savory to sweet (even when Western-inspired riffs on cheesecake and sundaes make appearances) by adhering to the Japanese philosophy so evident at Chef Masaharu Morimoto's eponymous establishments: each component in the dining experience is a gift presented by the host to the guest.
Inoue’s Salty Caramel Ganache, Chocolate Sable, Cacao Nib Tuile, Dark Chocolate Sorbet, and Dark Chocolate Globe could be mistaken for a jewelry box. Like a candy bar fit for a penthouse (gold leaf “wrapper” included), the dish layers crunchy, smooth, and chewy textures into an architectural celebration of chocolate—informed by Inoue's globe-trotting pastry background and a confessed chocolate obsession.
To house the dessert, Inoue fashions a chocolate shell—a visual cross between a birdcage and a disco ball—by tempering chocolate and pouring it into a spherical mold. After the chocolate hardens, he uses tools to push holes of various sizes through the (extremely) delicate chocolate shell. He then fastens one half of the globe to the plate using a little tempered chocolate and cold spray. After resting his multi-tiered sweet gently (very gently) inside the shell, he (holding his breath) affixes the two hemispheres of the globe together.
The technique requires patience and precision, and a temperament for chocolate. As Inoue says, his biggest problem working with chocolate is struggling to maintain cool temperatures in a busy kitchen. His tip is to work during the early hours of the morning in the unobstructed quiet and uninterrupted cool of a kitchen at rest. Though the labor involved is considerable, Inoue’s sculpted edible gift never fails to turn heads in the dining room.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Chalk It Up to Character: Survey Results Show Chefs Want to Teach

Click here to read this feature on StarChefs.com 

Chalk It Up to Character: Survey Results Show Chefs Want to Teach

by Jessica Dukes
August 2011



Michelle Obama, Sam Kass, and kids at the launch of Chefs Move to Schools at the White House, May 2010
When we recently partnered with the School Nutrition Association (SNA) to support Michelle Obama’s Chefs Move to Schools initiative, it only partly had to do with our enduring crush on the First Lady.
Admittedly, she had us at, “Hello, chefs.”  But what really lit our pilot light back in May of 2010 was Ms. Obama’s call for kitchen-folk to lend a hand in guiding America’s youth toward a healthier future. We know that chefs are a hardworking, committed, and passionate bunch, and it doesn’t take a leap of faith to imagine their tough, resilient, asbestos-proofed hands steering us away from an epidemic in unhealthy food choices. Who better than chefs to push kids toward roast chicken and braised kale and away from disposable food containers?

Chef Todd Gray inspects his sous chefs’ work
In support of Barack’s better half and the idea that kids deserve an alternative to refined sugar and monounsaturated fats, we wanted feedback from our readers on how best to get chefs into schools. And as bait (or a reward for charitable behavior), survey participants were automatically entered to win the complete (ultra-complete, in all its 43 pounds), six-volume edition of Modernist Cuisine by Dr. Nathan Myhrvold, Chef Chris Young, and Chef Maxime Bilet, provided by Winston Industries. Stay tuned on Twitter for the announcement of our winner!

Chefs at the Chalkboard (and the Lunchline)

Chefs are an active bunch and apparently not just behind the line (or carousing after work). Of our respondents, 48 percent already volunteer, whether by lending their culinary support at church or giving time to the local soup kitchen and to nonprofit charities like Share Our Strength, Recipe for Success, Meals on Wheels, and yes, Chefs Move to Schools. Charitable activity has its rewards, even professionally, but in an industry when 16-hour days are the norm, we’re pleased to see the trend in community involvement still going strong.

Chefs Tom Colicchio and Paul Kahan school kids on trimming cauliflower
Of those polled, 73 percent of chefs see themselves front and center in schools giving hands-on demonstrations, preferring to strut their stuff in lieu of lecturing or leading other forms of classroom instruction. Most respondents indicate that they are better prepared to share their time during the school day, rather than after school hours, when many restaurant professionals are on active duty.
Many survey takers call for fundamental changes in school lunches, and 89 percent of those surveyed express an interest in working with the school foodservice program. Among the throng of voices, there is an audible cry for locavorism in the cafeteria. Brainstorming new avenues of nutritional advancement, some suggest reorganizing school curriculums, making The Omnivore’s Dilemma required reading, or incorporating food awareness lessons into subjects like arithmetic and chemistry.

Field Trip! Beyond the Classroom


Chef Marcus Samuelsson and kids
Chefs aren’t limiting themselves to the four walls of the classroom; 65 percent of the culinary professionals who responded say that they are interested in advocacy efforts on government food policy. And 92 percent of chefs like the idea of teaching nutrition-based cooking to parents as part of a school-outreach program.
The largest majority of chef respondents want to lead “know your farmer” workshops. And a whopping 99 percent of those polled feel that farmers and kids are a natural fit, advocating for gardening classes, participation with local livestock farms, and lessons on seasonality. Chefs with the adventurous spirit even propose leading foraging expeditions.

Chefs Michael Nischan, Paul Kahan, and crew
We may have already known that chefs love farmers and seasonality and communicating their passion for food, but we are inspired nonetheless by their unequivocally high level of enthusiasm for nutritional education in schools. Faced with the plethora of volunteering options, one chef sums up an attitude that many share: “I would love to do all of these things and will probably look into it after doing this survey.”
Here’s hoping that the eager survey-taker mentioned above makes the time to give back (you know who you are!), and that Michelle (sigh!) gets her wish, the number of chefs in schools continues to grow, and kids benefit with healthier choices and a stronger foundation in food awareness. Class charcuterie project, anyone?

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition Announces Finalists


Click here to read this feature on StarChefs.com


Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition Announces Finalists


  • A Jimmy MacMillan pastry inspired by Cherry Lime Soda: Vanilla Custard, Tarakan Cake, and Shiso-Lime Infused Sweet Cherries
    A Jimmy MacMillan pastry inspired by Cherry Lime Soda: Vanilla Custard, Tarakan Cake, and Shiso-Lime Infused Sweet Cherries
    photo: Anthony Tahlier
    These days, the land of Oprah, Obama, online ticket sales à la Achatz, and goat-loving girls—yes, we’re talking Chicago—dispatches food news with increasing frequency. As a result, chefs from coast to coast have no recourse but to come to terms with a bad case of L-train envy. The icing on the cake? Word has it a new generation of Silpat-slinging sweetsmiths is preparing to take center stage.
    You may already be familiar with Chicago’s new pastry crowd. But come October 16, these sugar-hopped fiends of the pastry arts will face off in a duel designed to push the candy bar even higher.

    CRPC co-founders Michael Joy and Jimmy MacMillan
    CRPC co-founders Michael Joy and Jimmy MacMillan
    photo: Anthony Tahlier


    Pastry Chef Jimmy MacMillan of JMPUREPASTRY, a StarChefs.com 2011 Chicago Rising Star Pastry Chef, has spearheaded the First Annual Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition to showcase Chicago’s rich talent. “It’s about innovation and creativity, which I think are hallmarks of Chicago pastry chefs, and I want to blast that out to the whole world,”says MacMillan.
    MacMillan worked closely with Michael Joy, founder for the Chicago School of Mold Making, to design the competition. Local young culinary leaders, including Chef Curtis Duffy ofAvenues and Pastry Chef and Instructor Della Gosset of The French Pastry School, will judge the CRPC along with MacMillan.
    The event will be closed to the public, meaning there will be no ticket sales; instead, it will be filmed and broadcast via the web—bringing a grassroots feel to the world of silicone molds, mystery boxes, and plated desserts—all for the love of art, craft, and sugar.
  • First Annual Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition Finalists

Sunday, April 10, 2011

The Restaurant's Name...Revealed!

Today The New York Times covered Brushstroke, the new restaurant courtesy of David Bouley.

You can also check out my post from the beginning of the month. Just in case anyone was hanging by a thread...the secret restaurant's name was Brushstroke. Ta-dah!

Below, a photo I snapped that night on the way home from the restaurant of some kids that were monkeying around on the subway.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

David Bouley's new restaurant

David Bouley's got a new restauarant set to open soon, and I've been asked by the PR rep to keep things top secret until April 17, but there was a "friends and family" dinner on Friday night where my friend Kathleen and I were allowed to take photos, though we agreed not to publish any photos of the food yet. Just to continue with the secrecy game, I won't name the restaurant. Feel free to guess, though.

A pretty gorgeous space. This is the bar area. See the little diarama set into the wall?




Below are more pictures of the bar area.



The head mixologist's name is Gen (on the right); he makes a tomato cocktail that is nothing like a Bloody Mary. 


This is shozhu, the spirit in the tomato cocktail. Apart from that, Gen uses melon, and passionfruit seeds mixed with tomato seeds.
To the right, Executive Chef Isao Yamada. Below, the sushi chefs exercise cat-like focus.







But back in the kitchen, things are a little more relaxed.




So was it a great meal? We were presented with a 9 course tasting menu, and overall the food, ambience, and experience were all impressive. This is to be just the second kaiseki restaurant in the city, and if you're not familiar with Japanese kaiseki cusine, you might be interested in checking it out (for more information, check out this article: Demystifying Kaiseki). It's a traditional ceremonial Japanese form of cooking and presentation. Let's just say that when we were seated we were each presented with a blossoming cherry branch. And that my vegetable tempura contained a fried fern. 

The guests seemed to enjoy themselves.





So I would recommend it - though not in name, yet.